Misfire need help!

[TooMuckinFuch]

Car goes blugga blugga blugga blugga. Lol...

I'm already pretty sure I have a bad exhaust valve somewhere.
I just replaced an injector that flooded my engine up to the sparkplugs in gas (literally....)


Problem:
Car has no power. From my minimal car intelligence, I believe it to be bad wires..?
Also has a rough idle (figure it's related..?) and shakes a lot... (Still has shitty soft stock motor mounts)
We just replaced the distributor cap and rotor but no difference.


Questions:
Can I test each wire one at a time (with plugs) and see if they're the problem?
Can I do the same with a multi-meter?
What else (besides wires) should I check into?

I'm broke from moving and I'm trying to not fix anything else that's not broke.

[reezn]

Hey I'm willing to run this by some buddies in hopes of a solution. For now you'll have to put up with my shit so here we go: have you checked to make sure your wires are plugged in right? I mixed my wires on my 88' CRX after replacing the cap and rotor. How old are your wires? Have you pulled each wire and let the engine idle to see if it makes the car idle better or worse or makes no difference?

Is it blowing smoke, (odor?) if so what color is it blue, black, white, PINK j/k; How do you know it was a bad injector? Was the car running perfect before the bad injector problem? How long did you run the car with a bad injector? Did the car ever work right after you replaced the injector? Did you check your plugs for correct gap (only if you removed them) and for fouling.

Car goes blugga blugga blugga blugga. Lol...

I'm already pretty sure I have a bad exhaust valve somewhere.
I just replaced an injector that flooded my engine up to the sparkplugs in gas (literally....)


Problem:
Car has no power. From my minimal car intelligence, I believe it to be bad wires..?
Also has a rough idle (figure it's related..?) and shakes a lot... (Still has shitty soft stock motor mounts)
We just replaced the distributor cap and rotor but no difference.


Questions:
Can I test each wire one at a time (with plugs) and see if they're the problem?
Can I do the same with a multi-meter?
What else (besides wires) should I check into?

I'm broke from moving and I'm trying to not fix anything else that's not broke.

[TooMuckinFuch]

For sure. Haha.

Q: Was car running right before injector replacement?
A: It started its current problem the night before we pulled injectors to check for clogs in the nozzles

Q: Wires plugged in right?
A: Yup.

Q: How old are the wires?
A: Idk... so.. yeah.....

Q: Pulled wires to see differences?
A: Cylinders 1, 2, and 4 make engine bog down for a second, then it maintains idle.
Cylinder #3 doesn't do shit when removed. (Ahah.. )

Q: Blowing smoke?
A: It's been smoking mildly (And not constant) since my valve started clacking (Only at certain RPMs) and I
believe it was black (Not sure)

Q: How do I know it was a bad injector?
A: When we pulled it out, the little prongs that go over the end were broke (we broke them.. ) and it spewwed gas from around the tip of the injector.

Q: How long was car ran on bad injector?
A: It wasn't. It was broke when we pulled it to check to see if it was clogged up.

Q: Checked plugs for correct gap?
A: Nope, but either set (old or new) plugs do the same thing. Old plugs ran fine until the misfire problem started, though. Figured if they both had same effect, they were okay. They haven't been fouled or dropped

Q: Did the car run right after injector transplant?
A: Nope, same misfire. I'll try to make a video real quick if these Q&A don't help you.

[TooMuckinFuch]

Update:

Pulled the wire on Cylinder 3 again... switched it with Cylinder 2's wire. (Yes, on the distributor too.)

When I pull the wire out, it seems to run a bit smoother at idle while the other three make the car jerky...er.

ALSO: I found out the end of that bastard wire is ripped 180 degrees about 1cm up from the end. I noticed the spark is arcing out through the gap and probably grounding itself to the cylinder wall when on the plug (Yes?)

Going to try the wires, stay tuned!

Edit: Electrical tape over the wire resulted in about 50% more power, still kinda sluggish and sputtery when revved out of gear.

[s14]

Sounds like you can use new wires, I had some but gave them away. I know you're short on cash but I'd change the plugs while you're at it and see where you're at from there.

[reezn]

Don't forget to use electrical grease once you replace that wire. Grease should stop this from happening to you again.
You can check if the wire is the problem by using another plug wire from another car so you don't have to buy one, just make sure the bases on both sides of the wire connect at the cap and plug. You can work the base (connecting point that looks like an o ) out of each rubber end if they are too long, it's a little tough, but you can do it, Good luck.

[ZtheD]

Q: Can I do the same with a Multi-Meter?
A: Yes, to check spark wires set your DMM to Ohms. Take said wire completely off and put the leads at opposite ends, a good spark wires should be in K Ohms if it goes above 10K Ohms wire has too much resistance and wire should be replaced.

normal specs for spark wires should be about 2-4K Ohms per foot of wire (if I remember correctly). EX. a 2ft. wires should range from 4-8K ohms of resistance.

I think that should help you out enough to figure out the sparky sparky problem. If not, the PM me and il shall tell you other steps to figuring out the problem.

[reezn]

You got a manual right? They explain how to test several components so you don't have to throwed money at problems blindly.